Search Results for “rochefort”

Search Results for: rochefort

La Rochelle to Rochefort:- fascinating

Part1 – getting out in a hurry

Scruffy’s boat

Our next door neighbour, who we shall call Monsieur Scruffy on account of the state of himself and boat, was a genial guy with large frame and beard. Comfortable with being a Mr Scruffy he tells us he is off due to forthcoming lack of water.

Now I’m always wary of boat crews “with all the right gear”. Conversely Scruffy’s well used appearance tells me he knew a thing or two and if he thought he was running out of water then it’s worth checking out.

Filibuster tells me that there is a comfy 1.4m under the keel: my calculations tell me tide had 1.6m to fall. Scruffy was right, time to move on.

A crash brekky and off we go, headed, as is Scruffy, to Rochefort. Ancient one time strategic port of the French Navy..

The tides were on springs (when the levels reach their highest and fall to their lowest). And in particular these were big springs.In fact the second largest of the year: high tide of 6.6m and a low tide of 0.6m above datum.

Why does this matter? Well on the approaches to La Rochelle there are areas where the charted depth is just 0.5m below datum. Add the low tide level of 0.6m gives us only 1.1m of water at low tide.

We left at 1038 with, in theory, 1.9m of water above datum + minimum charted depth of 0.5m = 2.4m. Comfortably above the 2m Filibusters requires.

But it was windy, we dithered getting the boat ready, the tide went out further and by the time we reached the shallow bits it was 1105 and the tide had fallen a further 0.4m

Do the maths: 2.4m – 0.4m = 2.0m Bang on our draught.

Richeleu port mark on the way out: Man fishing. High tide mark 6m above him

The gods looked favourably on us: we didn’t bottom out but it was close….buttock clenchingly close…..especially when the depthometer read 0.00m under keel….

Moral of the story: heed Scruffy.

And the rest of the journey was a delight.

Heed Scruffy, read your charts for marked banks, don't wander of the fairway

Heed Scruffy, study your charts carefully, don’t wander off the fairway. This shot taken from Fouras on 14th August of a not so lucky skipper

Part 2 – Fort Boyard

This part of the world included strategic ports (including La Rochelle)and Naval Installations (Rochefort) and as such required significant and hugely expensive defences to stop those pesky Brits invading.

Said pesky Brits were at the same time building significant and hugely expensive defences to stop those pesky Frenchies doing the same.

All in all a bit of an arms race and all around the coast of France are to be found massive forts (citadelles) designed to blast to pieces any invading ships.

South of La Rochelle, in a bay protected by Ile D’Oleron to the West is Fort Boyard. Started in 1804 and finished in 1859 (yess 55 years!) it was designed to protect the waters between Ile Doleron to the West and Il D’Aix to the east.

Fort Boyard, Ile D’Oleron shores 1 mile away

These 2 islands, barely 3miles apart have significant defences of their own, but canon capability of the day meant that the centre of the straight was out of range and therefore a weakness.

Cue Fort Boyard. Built at enormous cost (including building the small town of Boyardville) it took 55 years to complete. Essentially it is an island fort with nearly all of its guns facing into the straights between the islands.

taking a good look at Boyard

It was never fully commissioned. In the intervening years naval gunnery range and accuracy improved so much that its initial raison d’etre became obsolete.

Recently it has been used by TV crews from over 20 nations to films the TV game quiz Crystal Maze.

Part 3 up the Charente River to Rochefort

If you like your rivers to look like white coffee, then the Charente is for you – undoubtedly the muddiest river I’ve ever come across.

river – flowing IN !

But if you like pootling up river and admiring the bankside flaura, fauna and things of interest then you won’t like the Charente.

With absolute minimal sail we were sluiced up on the incoming tide at up to 7.4kn. But sail we did for all but a couple of hundred metres when the wind wouldn’t allow it.

Along the banks are many sheds on stilts built for the purpose of catching whatever is swimming around at high tide.

Rochefort charente

The river winds, this way, then that way, then the other in an enormous loop… past the still fully operational transporter bidge

….with many leading marks to help navigate the twists and turns :

leading lines D-D.

And finally to Rochefort itself, where the first impressive sights, out of many impressive sights, is the Hermione – fully restored ship of the line that will go to sea later this year

More to come from Rochefort in due course – it’s an absolute delight full of history, good food, fine markets and great ambience.

Hermione. Naughty Sailors sent up in the rigging

Martin, 14 August, 2014. Category: Passages, Ports and Places.

Places

OK, this isn’t an almanac. it’s a collection of things humorous, odd events and a light hearted look at some of the people,places and events that made up our travels in Filibuster.

You can use the search box on the right or click one of the shortcuts below

Here’s a list by place, it’s not an exhaustive list of places visited, just the ones written about:

Le Belle Isle / Le Palais / Sauzon

St Martin / Ile de Re

La Rochelle

Rochefort

Spain

Viveirio

A Coruna

admin, 21 August, 2016.

Hotels for Liz

Not a boaty type?

Our good friend Liz isn’t really a boaty sort of person. in fact the world of boats is an alien one to such an extent that much of that written in this diary isn’t applicable.

Liz is a First Class sort of person in every sense of the word: “Why stay on a lumpy, bumpy, slow, small boat when you can stay in a nice hotel that you don’t have to buy?”

So dedicated to Liz, and anyone else who doesn’t quite see the point of life on the ocean wave, I’m building a list of some of the finer hotels we have come across in our travel:

The Hotels

St Martin-de-Re, Ile De Re

Just off La Rochelle and connected by road bridge. A few minutes from the airport by taxi.

Hotel de Toiras. Right on the corner of the harbour. Step out of 5* luxury right into the crowd.

Rooms from €420 a night at the peak of the season.

Just a short walk away from the centre and away from it all is the Hotel Clos St Martin.

4* with room rates €210 to €560 in high season there’s something for everyone’s budget.

Le Palais, Belle Isle: The Citadelle Hotel. Superbly located in the Citadelle overlooking Le Palais and the sea.

Castel Clara, Belle Ile. Away from it all across the other side of the Island, a place to

you can spend some serious bucks here: it makes a mooring look good value for money.

Le Corderie-Royal e, Rochefort. On the banks of the Charente River and right next to the marina. The Hotel is located in a part of the old rope making factory:

….more to come as we find or remember them

admin, 14 July, 2015.

Pornic, stylish

Here we are in Pornic. A stylish place if ever there was one.

The houses and grounds along of the estuary to the old port reek of having had a lot of money applied to them over a long period of time. If you remember the film “Dirty Rotten Scoundrels” with Michael Caine and Steve Martin then it’s that sort of ambience.

panoramic view of the west bank of Pornic

Panorama looking away from the marina along the west bank. The coast path wends it way right into town in a delightful 15minute stroll

panorama looking out from the drying harbour. The marina wall can just be made out in the distance

And its the 1st September and pleasantly warm and sunny as our new instrument confirms. WP_20140901_007

And it’s the first day of Michele’s retirement. More on that later but first a word or two about the bottom and how close it gets to the surface.

2m or more required

In Filibuster it’s never less than 2m. Or so you would have thought. Negative draught is not recommended in the manual.

We tested it on the way out of La Rochelle – that was a bit scary. The following week we left a furrow in the mud on the way out of Rochefort – and that was at high tide!.

And of course when you are on a boat as long as we have been this time round (5 weeks now) you are bound to come across days when the place you want to go to, the time you arrive and the tide are at odds with the 2m or more rule.

Like Bourgenay on the 27th August : the chart shows 0.7m minimum but the channel is supposedly 1m- added to lowest tide of 1.2m should be OK. but with swell running and an unfortunate arrival time discretion delayed arrival in favour of some pootling. (See chart)

Like Pornic. Arriving much earlier than expected due to very favourable sailing conditions. We approached….very slowly…we stirred some sand, we retreated and did some more pootling. In fact quite a bit as this chart shows….

Don’t get the idea we make a habit of testing the bottom, but there is always something delicious about getting into port or up river on a rising tide 🙂

Shot taken by Michele from the rear of boat whilst in Pornic

Retirement Party

So here we are on the 1st September in Pornic.

chink, clink, slurp

The season has finished and Michele has retired.

To celebrate we broke a golden rule and had a drink before the sun was over the yard arm. At least in this time zone, but as long as you believe its over the yard arm in some time zone somewhere then that’s Ok
Life is tough.

Some time later.

And a bit later zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

and even later we found out that every restaurant around the port had closed down except the one where the local fishermen were making a really professional job of getting obliterated celebrating the end of season. I say professional since they had been at it for over 24 hours.

NEW member of Crew

– this is Michele anthropomorphising again

CHINKY-BOO – yes that is its real name – made by the eponymous Chinky Boo Corporation of China is an ice maker and it produces 9 hollow ice cubes every 8 to 9 minutes.

It has been marvelous and also allowed us to have G & Ts with ice for the first time ever on board.

This leads onto the other piece of equipment purchased this year – a proper device to keep white wine cool into which we put Chinkyboo’s ice cubes (ed: as well as the bottle of wine ). Result happiness !!!!!!!!!!!

Martin, 2 September, 2014. Category: Ports and Places.

We are in…

2023 part 2 – Ready to head South

15 Sep Port Arzal – Camoël. Good call leaving La Turballe early. A midday departure had us slowly up the Vilaine on the rising tide (least depth 0.1m en route) with warm sunny weather. Summer came to an end that evening…and the forecast, unsurprisingly has gales on the equinox 🙁

14 Sep La Turballe. In their nice new marina. Much improved. A delighful sail across the mouth of the Loire- warm sunny weather, light NE breeze giving a beam reach without any swell.

We were going to stay 2 nights here but the forecast for the 15th is dire and we want to be back at base along with many others…

13 Sep L’Herbaudière, Noirmoutier. Last time we were here (Aug 2015) we vowed to avoid this place due to the rude nature of the fishing boats trying to cause maximum disturbance to yachts moored on the visitors ponton. Things do seem to have improved in the intervending years but there is certainly still problems. Still it’s only for 1 night to break up the race back to Arzal due to impending bad weather.

Click here for a bit of l’herbaudiere humour

10-12 Sep Port Joinville, Ile de Yeu . We had it all except snow! Thunder, lightening, some wind, no wind, rain, hot sun. Motor / motor-sail all 17nm.

9 Sep St Gilles Croix de la Vie . Pleasant sail up after passing Les Sables. A couple’d so difficult to get the bikes off.

7,8 Sep Bourgenay. motored up in hot weather.

2-6 Sep – St Martin, Ile de Re. Sunny, warm, Saturday. The last day of many boaters holidays and the place started off rammed. We are 3rd out with 2 more outside us as I write.Keep calm and carry on 🙂

Another joined our trot to make it 6. But the following day a space opened up at the rear of the marina and by way of a bit of negotiation we bagged it for the remainder of our stay.

But the late hot summer weather was too much and we left a bit earlier for the cooler north

1 Sep La Rochelle, Les Minimes Mega Marina. They wanted us out by the 3rd so we booked 2 nights on PE to comply. BUT they really wanted us out quicker so they can get on with building the Grand Pavois (Boat Show). To help us on the way the electricity wasn’t working. Coincidence or not? Anyway we refunded the extra PE night and headed to St Martin.

31 Aug Bourgenay. lumpy and cool sail down, but it was a sail.

26-30 Aug Port Joinville, Ile de Yeu . The chart has it as 43nm, we covered it in 6 1/2 hours with a maximum SOG of 8kn. The average speed was 6.6kn 🙂

25 Aug Piriac sur Mer. We’re out! Looks like just 1 night here as the weather says go south tomorrow…

22-24 Aug Port Arzal – Camoël.Arrived at past 630pm CET. That makes it 530pm UK so it really is 12 hours from early morning alarm to setting foot on board. Do the necessary and head to the (busy) restaurant.

2023 part 1 – Start of a normal year?

30 June – Arzal. That’s it for this trip 🙂

29 Jun Piriac sur Mer. Super sail across in light Northerlies.

28 June Port Blanc, Ile aux Moines. Late high tide meant an afternoon departure from Vannes so we camped out for a night in one of our favourites. Departure the following morn was not one of our best due to strong currents….

26,27 June Vannes We co-ordinated all our travel to be in Vannes for a meal at La P’Tite Souris only to find, with 1 hour notice that they’ve goner on holiday for 2 weeks! Never mind – a nice meal in the best table above the Capitainerie woent down well.

24,25June Port Blanc, Ile aux Moines. An early start to get into the Morbihan with the tide. Left PH at 0710.

22,23 June Port Haliguen, Quiberon. We toyed with the idea of going to Le Palice on Belle Isle – but it would have been for just one night so came to PH directly. It’s on our way to Vannes where we want to be next week.

20,21 Jun Port Louis At last – a super sail down – beamy – runny upto 6.6kn but pretty sailed all the way. Hoorah

19 June Concarneau – back again! The same 12m in reverse, more or less. This time with flappy things the whole way. Woo hoo.

17,18 June Loctudy. A favourite due to the superb poissoniere in the fishing port + the nice view from the back of the boat to Ile Tudy. No wind on the way but it’s only 12nm. Super gourmet crustacean meal with Ian & Rowena tonight.

15,16 June. Concarneau – Fascinating walled fort is always worth a visit but first we had to get here: 25nm of which the first 20 had wind bang on the nose. The last 5 had a superb beam reach with boat speed over 7kn 🙂

13,14 June. Port Tudy, Ile de Groix. Hot weather, no sailing on the 6nm crossing. Met up with old friends John & Julia on Wyldwind. Our paths haven’t crossed in 6 years so it’s great to meet up again. A well timed 11a.m. arrival gave us the last inner harbour berth.

10,11,12 Jun Port Louis First time back in one of our favourites since 2016! What happened: 2017 -Spain, 2018 – missed due to crew changes, 2019 – missed out, 2020 &21 – didn’t make it this way due to Covid. 2022 – Hosting a Ukrainian family resulted in minimal June cruise.

8,9 June Port Haliguen, Quiberon. Out on the 8am lock 6h journey only 40mins under sail. Hot. rain coming.

6,7 Jun Port Arzal – Camoël. Boat launched, Ferry delayed by 1 1/2h, we arrived just before 8pm. Long day.

2022 part 2 – here comes the rain!

16 Sep Port Arzal – Camoël. Back home & end of sailing for this year 🙁 But a fine end of season meal last night with friend Ian & Rowena at 17bis.

14,15 Sep Piriac sur Mer. Motor-Sail-Motor-Sail all the way. The weather turned cool for the first time. Maybe Autumn’s finally on it’s way.

11-13 Sep Port Joinville, Ile de Yeu . Arzal have announced new locks this week which means we can get back in and continue our original itinerary. We’ll lose something on the new flights we booked but hey ho.

10 Sep Bourgenay. Plan A was to go the who 55nm to Yeu. Plan B was Les Sables D’Olonne. There was no Plan C. The sea was still lumpy but a strong following tide combined with an early start made B accessible so we did. Friends staying in Les Sables regretted it due to noise ashore into the early hours.

2-9 Sep – St Martin, Ile de Re. Same spot at the back as last year. Perfect. Very quiet in the town with many restaurants closed, even on a Friday night.

1 Sep La Rochelle, Les Minimes Mega Marina. Tides were not good for the next leg to a quicky for a peaceful night

30,31 August. St Denis D’Oleron. Wow – for the first time in some years a new place for us! We’ve tried to get here at least twice before and have been thwarted. This time a warm motor/sail via Ile D’Aix and the tides just right we made it.

28,29 Aug La Rochelle, Les Minimes Mega Marina. Mainly a sail in v.warm conditions. 28th seemed to confirm what we have come across on this trip: it is very quiet on the water but the towns are buzzing. That might change on the 29th (a Monday) as the schools resume later this week.

26,27 August Bourgenay. Nice run down pretty much all the way in pleasant warm weather. The visitors pontoon was empty when we arrived: it’s quiet on the water this year.

25 August St Gilles Croix de la Vie . Nice sail down, running at an average of around 5kn in warm weather.

21-24 August Port Joinville, Ile de Yeu . Pornic was rammed with holidaymakers in this last full week of the summer holiday so we left to find our favourite very quiet. Motored all the way.

20 August Pornic. A pleasant motor with virtually no wind or swell. We haven’t been here since 2014 when Michele retired! Follow the link to find out more about Pornic

18,19 AugustPiriac sur Mer. The secherage (drought) in France has resulted in even more draconian restrictions on the lock. Now only 5 locks in a week. Getting out was our priority, as it was for 21 other boats in a very full lock. We got there early (3.5hrs early) to make sure and were rewarded. Motored all the way to Piriac when we could have sailed a bit but we got there.

15-17 August. Port Arzal – Camoël. Back in France for second time – the first in 3 years!. And after the long drought it rains.

2022 – First time in June for 3 years!

16,17 June Piriac sur Mer. Why hang around in Haliguen when you can go for a beer on Ile d’Hoedic? We upped and went. A fine glass of Leffe in the heat followed by sail-motor to Piriac and finally a superb meal at Restaurant 17bis.

15 June Port Haliguen, Quiberon After 2 delightful days at Ile aux Moines we find ourselves in the not so delightful marina. A meal tonight at the Creperie du Vieux Port would have held promise, but its Wednesday and they are closed 🙁

13,14 June Port Blanc, Ile aux Moines . Up before 8am! to get out of the otherwise locked in Port de Vannes. Tickover trip for the 5 of so miles in bright but cool sunshine.

10-12 June Vannes Whereas Crouesty is a modern marina, Vannes is an ancient city, inland with a port. Plus some fantastic restaurants to boot. Le P’Tit Souris being one we like most. It’s a 13nm trip made shorter by the incoming tide.

9 June Port du Croesty. It’s a modern purpose built marina surrounded by modern purpose built shops, houses, flats etc. We stopped here once on the way in to The Morbihan and we are doing it again.

8 June Piriac Sur Mer. A 9am lock out and we were the only boat in it. F5/F6 Westerlies made for a lumpy journey down but the sun then came out. Very quiet in Piriac.

5,6,7 June. Port Arzal – Camoël. The previous 2 years have had trips in June cancelled due to Covid. But his year we made it.

We had planned to go West then North but the weather is against us. Over an inch of rain forecast for tonight (7th) – that’s over 25.4mm for those not bilingual

2021 – Covid still a nuisance

10 September. Port Arzal – Camoël. 9am start to get to Arzal before the water ran out. Even when your calcs are right and you know you are right, it’s always a bit stressful going up river on a falling spring tide.

That’s it for salty sailing this year. In 4 weeks voyaging we covered 259nm, needed only 50l of diesel at a rate of just over 2L/hr. Not bad at all.

8,9 Sept Piriac Sur Mer.First and last salty stop, 50% motor up from Port Joinville. Still v.warm despite more seasonal westerlies.

6,7 Sep Port Joinville, Ile de Yeu . We’ve been here when it’s wet, we’ve been here when it’s windy. But on the 6th it’s neither: Maximum sun, no wind, 29° in the shade. Arrived after an early start and slow sail from St Gilles straight into our favourite berth: inside the hammerhead on ponton B.

3-5 Sep St Gilles Croix de la Vie . Pick up James from Nantes airport. We hired a car just in case the flight was late and he missed the last Sunday train. Did Noirmoutier on the way.

2 Sep Bourgenay. Bang on forecast the wind died. But not before a lovely sail 13 out of 20 nm. about 5 of which with the cruising chute. Still very sunny & warm unlike back in the UK which seems covered in cloud & cool.

27 Aug – 1 Sep St Martin, Ile de Re. In a repeat of last year: headed out and dropped anchor off Rivedoux-Plage for lunch in fine weather. From there the journey is just 8nm to St Martin with plenty of spare time and having not much on took a slow boat up with just the main up. Doing about 3kn and arriving on time for the 1715 opening. Perfect.

Today, Saturday 28th August marks the end of the French holiday month and a return to a quieter time on the water and inland.

But the weather: 6 days of warm sunshine and F4 gusting F6 during the day is a bit wearisome.

26 Aug La Rochelle, Les Minimes Mega Marina.A fine beam reach all the way. 30nm in 5h40 door to door.

Unlike Bourgenay it still seems very busy here in the sunny and warm last week of the French holiday season.

24,25 Aug Bourgenay. 33nm sail down that should have been nice, but the wind is in the E/NE and creates an unpleasant chop. We did sail all the way. On leaving Port Joinville there were 18 other boats at 10am either heading South or North. The marina had been packed -possibly only 1 or 2 spaces left. That’s the Grand Migration in action and will end soon. The Capitanerrie tells us Bourgenay was rafted 4 deep last week so we are glad to have arrived in calmness.

19-24 August Port Joinville, Ile de Yeu . Left Piriac in the dark whilst the flap was still down. The forecast w F3-4 never materialised so we motored the whole way. Just tying up on the long pontoon and lo, a B berth comes free. Then another nearer the end. We are in and made up.

Classic use of Passeport Escales gives us 4 nights – a cost otherwise of €168. Add in the 2 nights at Piriac and that’s 10% of the annual mooring bill saved already.

17,18 August Piriac Sur Mer. With a tidal departure problem/ If we leave at a “sensible time” then getting to Ile d’Yeu would be around 8pm. It will be rammed. We could be even later in the light winds.

We could go via Pornichet but the weather most likely means motoring the whole way to both Pornichet and thence Ile D’Yeu.

Or we could get up early and leave Piriac at 0630, arriving Yeu mid afternoon with about 50-50 sailing. Next post will reveal all.

12-17 August. Arzal. Similar to last year: no May setup week, no June cruising month but again we’ve made it out. Portsmouth-Caen this time. Boat up together with the exception of the anemometer cups that dropped off over winter.

2020 – The year Covid hit

18-22 September. Port Arzal – Camoël. That’s it for this year. We mananged to get nearly 6 weeks on board, the majority of it in fine warm weather. The day we left the weather broke leading to cold and wet at home, not much better in Arzal. As I write it’s 7degs outside. brr. Heating and fire on for the first time this season. We are, at least for the time being, softies.

15-17 September Piriac Sur Mer . Long haul – 44NM nearly all under motor in calm conditions. Leaving at dawn (0730) and arriving just after 1400.

10 Sep – 14 Sep Port Joinville, Ile de Yeu . Left at dawn to make the best of the wind. It became increasingly on the nose so we motored that last 6NM (out of 33). Confidently expecting the port to be empty based on previous visits at this time, we found it almost full. A pontoon berth was had, the last of 2 decent ones. We think the continuing fine weather and a season curtailed by lockdowns is bringing out many who would normally have given up the season by now.

9 Sep Bourgenay.It’s 20NM from St Martin, we did it in 4 hours of which 3 were motor sailed and the final hour was a beautiful reach in 10kn, 25°C, bright sunshine 🌞and no swell. If only it was always like this 😎

31 Aug – 8 Sep St Martin, Ile de Re. Gentle motor to pick up a buoy off Rivedoux Plage, Ile de Ré. Lunch, followed by another gently motor to port, arrived in no wind at around 1615. On 2nd we decided to stay in France longer to avoid UK quarantine and watch the end of Stage 10 of the Tour de France.

29,30 Aug La Rochelle, Les Minimes Mega Marina. Quiet though. A leisurely start from Bourgenay followed by a good running sail all the way. Cruising chute again proved too powerful in the gusts.

27,28 Aug Bourgenay. Sailed all 33nm in a lumpy F4-F6.

23-26 Aug Port Joinville, Ile de Yeu . A pleasant enough, mainly sailed but with unfriendly swell emanating from previous day’s weather. It even became warm. The marina is well used, but not of migration standards. Many boats left on Wednesday, mainly heading north.

20-22August Piriac Sur Mer . Staying a bit longer than expected in Arzal due to poor weather, we finally made it out. Two and a half months late, but better late than never. Persistent F6 winds on 22nd and overnight built a large swell so we stayed put and paid for a night!

13-19 August. Arzal. 3rd time lucky and we finally made it on the day the UK government announced quarantine restrictions starting early Saturday. Crazy or what.

Just one month short of a year since we last were on board.

2019 part 2

4 September. Arzal. We could have stayed another night in Piriac but the forecast said go today. One day earlier than planned. Another sunny dawn start 🙂 But that’s it for this year. 🙁 Can’t wait for next year.

3 September Piriac Sur Mer After a nice 44nm sail departing before dawn on one tack, motoring a bit in the middle and finishing off with a smooth sunny 7.66kn ride up to Piriac sur Mer. Heaven. But really could have stayed long on Ile De Yeu.

30 Aug – 2 Sep Port Joinville, Ile de Yeu . Unlike the super sail on the way down the forecast for the way up was 6 gusting 12 on the beam and sailable most of the way before the wind was to die. We got up at 630 to make it happen but the reality was ahead of us. more like 2 gusting 6kn. We motored the whole way.

28,29 Aug Bourgenay. Sailed about 2/3 of the way until wind died and came noseward. Inital 1/3 with cruising chute but the better tactic would have been close hauled near Ile de Re then turning more northward to keep the wind beamy.

23-27 Aug St Martin, Ile de Re. Left La Rochelle at 8am and enjoyed a glorious run, beam reach all 12 miles to St Martin 🙂 . The forecast was ENE 10kn gusting 22, the reality was ENE 15-22, mainly toward the top end. Sunny and warm with temperatures topping 30 °C later.

21,22 La Rochelle, Les Minimes Mega Marina. Quiet though. An early start from Bourgenay yielded a good sail for two thirds of the way before the wind died

19,20 Bourgenay. Motored the whole way in light winds and a rolly sea. And the sun came out 🙂

15-18 Aug Port Joinville, Ile de Yeu . Forecast for today was a no brainer. Get up prompt, leave before 0830 and sail all the 45nm on one tack. The forecast for tomorrow (Friday) to Sunday also looks like a no brainer. Storms a coming. Stay put…

14 August Piriac Sur Mer Captain Slog. As did the galley slave. the forecast of 12kn gusting 26kn turned out to be 20+kn gusting near 30kn. With rain. A thoroughly unpleasant journey all in the cause of getting us further along (11nm along out of 54) toward Ile D’Yeu in pleasant beamy westerlies tomorrow. Next log will tell all.

12-13 August Arzal.

2019 part 1

4 July Arzal. End of session

3 July Piriac Sur Mer . Gav & Daf leave for home. The forecast said go East so East we did, at up to 7.7kn on a hot blustery 3rd reef run

2 July Vannes.

1 July Ile aux Moins.

30 Jun Port Tudy, Ile de Groix

28,29 Jun Concarneau. Stayed the extra night for the music festival….that happened last week 🙁

27 Port la Foret. The Marina is a marina, but walk across to the old port for some better ambience and super Cafe du Port. Still hot at over 30 and lobster tonight…

26 Loctudy. single tack all the way from Lorient in sunny and hot weather

24,25 Jun. Lorient-Kerneval.

22,23 Jun Locmiquélic, (Lorient). Ian & Judy have now left. We are chilling out as there’s not much else to do here.

21 Jun Port Tudy, Ile de Groix. Great time touring the island on electric velos.

19,20 Jun Le Palais, Belle Ile. Every used a mini moke (or French equivalent) We have. Once , possibly the first and last time !

18 June. Late departure from Vannes due to tides, stay the night at Ile aux Moines

15-17 Jun Vannes. John & Sharon left on the 16th, Ian & judy arrived on 17th

14 La Trinite sur Mer. Super 25nm beam reach in sunny F4. Marina surprisingly full

11,12,13 Piriac Sur Mer Early departure through the barrage on a grey day that became a wet day. left on 13 but had to return to sort out the furling main.

10 Jun John and Sharon arrive. Pick up at Redon followed by a quick up river beer at La Roche Barnard and back to Arzal for the night

6-8 Jun. Port Arzal – Camoël. Arrived yesterday, provisioned this morning. It’s Thursday. We should have left by now but a storm is coming and will hit overnight and on in to Saturday. No point in moving to a less sheltered spot so we are staying put.

2018 part 2

9 Sep. Port Arzal – Camoël. Super sail: cruising chute became over powered in near 15kn. Sailed under Genoa & Main the rest of the way to up river to Arzal in warm sunny weather. Through the barrage without incident and that’s it for this year 🙁

8 Sep. Piriac sur Mer. We hung on in Yeu and enjoyed warm weather and sandy beaches. Waited for favourable winds, left at dawn and sailed the majority of the 44nm.

4-7 Sep Port Joinville, Ile de Yeu. The wind looked right for a nice sail across and indeed it was. We left St Giles a day early and had 17.5 miles (almost) all under sail.

3 Sep St Gilles Croix de la Vie

1,2 Sep Bourgenay. Still warm and sunny.

25-31 Aug St Martin, Ile de Re.

23,24 La Rochelle, Les Minimes Mega Marina.

22 Aug. Bourgenay. Warm, sunny, windy. Excellent trip down under cruising chute and just a bit of motor.

18-21 Aug Port Joinville, Ile D’Yeu. 6kn following wind = motor all 44nm from Piriac. Sunny & warm to boot with no sign of previous problems. Phew. We love it here and so do many others: each night the marina has been full as a result of the “grande migration” of boats going home before the end of the holidays. On the 21st it was full-full and late comers had to find space on the fishing boat quays.

17 Aug, Back to Piriac Sur Mer. Our earlier schedule had us arriving on Isle D’Yeu today. Expect to be there on 18th so we are 1 day behind.

15,16 Aug Departed for Pornic, ended up in Arzal – unusual noise neccessitates checkup by mechanic. All apparently OK.

13,14 Aug Piriac Sur Mer. First sail of this year and a brisk 7kn into a lively Piriac. Jam packed in this holiday week.

11,12 Aug La Roche Bernard. In a thunderstorm as I write.

8 – 10 Aug Port Arzal – Camoël . Warm sunny, relaxing.

part 1 didn’t happen – broken boat so we motored a voiture to the places we would have gone to!

2017 part 2

8 Sep. Port Arzal – Camoël . Full Circle.

Camoël side, in a very sheltered berth. We broke out of Piriac this afternoon hoping to get into either evening lock. A 20nm blat and straight in. Apparently after 3 days of closure there were 69 boats on the waiting pontoon last night!

That’s it for 2017. Some stats: The boat has covered 1400nm. We fed it with 819l of diesel. Sailed around 100nm 🙁 Pretty awful really.

7 Sep. Still in Piriac. Hobsons choice – stay sheltered or risk F6 approach to the Arzal lock. We stayed on.

5-6 Piriac Sur Mer. Almost home. Would have preferred to stay longer on Ile D’Yeu, but the forecast said “Go today and you will be rewarded, go tomorrow and you will wish you left the day before”. So we left and were rewarded with a single tack 44nm beam reach with speeds up to 7.8kn. The route took just 6.5hours. Best of the year 🙂

4 Sep Port Joinville, Ile D’Yeu. We actually sailed most of the way!

2,3 Sep Bourgenay. We love it for the calmness….

30,31 Aug & 1 Sep St Martin, Ile de Re.

27-29 Aug La Rochelle, Les Minimes Mega Marina. 8hr motor in calm conditions gets us another big leap Northward (50nm). Arzal can be reached in 2 days from here, but Filibuster is done passage making and is now a slow boat: we have 3 weeks to play with before going home

26 Aug. Another free night in Port Medoc. If there’s one thing we’ve learnt about marinas is the combination that produces a good night’s sleep. Port Medoc: enclosed, no swell or wash, fishing boats, noisy roads, airport or rail lines fits the bill. Calm.

25 Aug Port Medoc. Yep, where the wine comes from. We were heading across the the Gironde to Royan but a slightly faster pace and siltier entrance made for 0 depth. Tired, we popped across to Port Medoc. Total journey 156nm in abt 28hrs. Cream Crakered.

24 Aug -en route to Royan

23 Aug Bermeo. Pretty old port with much of the historic centre in tact.

Martin’s covered 1060nm and Michele 746nm so far. We’ve filled our boots with sailing (motoring) and tomorrow head back to France. About another 350 or so nm to go before Arzal!

Update to South Biscay Pilot: There is a recent addition to the port aimed at transiting boats. A new pontoon with 4 long fingers accommodating 8 boats, nominally up to 14m. Water + electricity in abt 2.5m. No reservation possible. Located on the wall next to F.G. Wash from small boats is a nuisance.

22 Aug Bilboa. Marina del Abra wouldn’t take us (even on Passeporte Escale) so we had to go to Marina Getxo. Free washing m/c + dryer tempered the outrageous €54 for the night…

21 Aug. Short but long slog to Laredo. Huge marina with plenty of space…

20,21 Aug Santander. Long long 75nm slog (motor of course) via St Vincente de La Barquara where there was no room at the inn. Neither at Marina Santander. Finally berthed in Marina Cantabrico around 1230am…zzzz. Nice marina, welcoming and helpful staff. Shorter walk to the airport than often around & inside Gatwick, but like Gatwick, it’s nowhere near the centre of town.

18,19 Aug Ribadesella. Think Ambleside-by-the-sea. Gateway to the Picos Europos. Run by the Home Guard, no English but charming and polite all the same. Excellent & clean facilities ashore.

Update to South Biscay Pilot: Space for visiting boats is available on the long eastern pontoon of the marina. Water & electricity in 2-2.5m. Enter from the NE along a line of small red port markers, turn left and follow the marina round to the long pontoon.

15-17 Aug Gijon. A long day’s trek 66 miles in 10.5h avg 6.2kn in benign conditions. All motor of course. The coast between Ribadeo and Gijon is largely mountainous, with a narrow strip of usable land before steep to cliffs. Not many places of interest to stop so today gets us a good way east.

Gijon (pron more like shee-shon) is a superb city. More to come in the blog.

14 Aug Ribadeo.

12,13 Aug Viveiro, . Up early to beat the adverse winds and swell. But they are quicker and had left already. 6 hour journey: motor for 2/3rd in light easterlies then superb beam reach 7kn in 11kn of wind back to Viviero. Full circle.Viveiro: sheltered, super flat. Good zzz Nice olde shopping street.

11 Aug Cedeira. We leave A Coruna full of diesel but no wind. Motor. I go down below to check the charts. Wind pipes up to 16+kn on the nose. We pass Cabo Prior, turn 45 degrees to head North East. Wind responds by remaining on the nose and increases to 20+kn. At least it’s sunny but otherwise it’s a slog to Cedeira. 🙁

9,10 Aug. 48nm/9hr slog to A Coruna. Sometime under motor, sometime under sail, most of the time under both

8 Aug – 2 months on:- back in Muxia.

7 Aug – back to Muros from home: car, train, train, hotel, 4am start for Easyjet to Santiago, taxi to bus station, bus to Muros. On board before mid day….

The journey so far:

2017

23 Jun and on.Muros. Back again. Tonight is the “Night of the Witches”. Pedro promises music and noise all night. The God bombs started soon after our arrival at Midday….

22 Jun Portosin.At 34nm the last long leg of this trip brings us to Real Club Nautico de Portosin

20, 21 Jun. Porto Nova. It’s hot, damn hot. But there’s a bar overlooking the marina and we know how to use it.

19 Jun Islas Cies. Spanish National Nature Reserve island. At anchor.

17,18 Jun Sanxenxo.

15,16 Jun Vigo. About 13 miles from the Portuguese border and as far South as we planned to go. Weather hot, wind plenty. Sailed more today than the whole 2 previous weeks!

13,14 Jun La Puebla Do Caraminal. Nice enough town, nice enough marina.

10,11,12 Jun Muros. lovely. We liked it so much we actually paid for an extra night!

9 Jun Finisterre, yep the real one. The most Westerly point of mainland Europe.

8 Jun Muxia. pron something like murcia but with a “th” as in murth-ee-a. Super place, excellent and deserted marina, plenty to see & do ashore for a day or so. Add to that €9 pp lunch and fantastic hardware/chandlery and we are made up.

7 Jun Camariñas. What can I say…nice marina, laid back staff, shop. That’s about it. Sorry.

6 Jun Porto Corme, NW Spain round the corner of NW Spain. Stopover at anchor to break the journey toward Caraminas.

4,5 Jun A Coruna!. Fine sail down and in. In company with 2 other French yachts. Bad weather forecast for Monday night but we are tucked in nicely. Monday night unbelievable Galician cooking at Meson El Serrano

3 Jun Cedeira. At anchor. James departed, Michele, Daphne, Sharon and John arrive. 6 go forth. No wind.

1,2 Jun Viveiro, Spain. 307nm, motored across the whole of the Bay of Biscay except for a couple of hours.

30, 31 May. Motoring across the Bay of Biscay. Boring.

29 May. Arzal. Boat prepped, Gav and James crew on board. Here comes Spain 🙂

2016

13 Sep Arzal – that’s it for this season.

12 Sep La Roche Bernard. The lock is closed 14&15 Sep so we decided to go through ahead of the certain bun fight tomorrow. Hot hot again – thermometer say 30 deg C

10,11 Sep Piriac Sur Mer. Super beam reach.24nm 3h 50m including departure, breakfast on the go and tying up. 7kn much of the way with a top of 7.75kn.

7-9 Sep Port Haliguen.

5,6 Sep Ile de Groix

3,4 Sep Port Louis

29 Aug – 2 Sep Loctudy. Had to pay for 1 night!

27,28 Aug Saint Marine. Delightful.

25,26 Aug Port Louis

23,24 Aug Ile aux Moines, Golfe de Morbihan. via Hoedic.

22 Aug Piriac Sur Mer. Great meal aboard Wombat with the Carlsons.

20,21 Aug La Roche Bernard

16-19 Aug Arzal. Arrived in 32 degree of heat & humidity. Too hot to sleep with a quilt, but by morning it had all gone and too cold ….

4-6 Jul Arzal. That’s it for now. Sadly no new posts due to absence of good materiel: will try to make one …

2,3 Jul La Roche Bernard Faffing, cleaning , fixing. Even us boaty adventurers need to do it…

1 Jul Piriac Sur Mer. Yet another lumpy sail round. Last stop before the Villaine.

30 Jun Pornichet.We were heading for Pornic but got the spelling wrong….lumpy sea and better course of sail wins…..

28,29 Jun. Ile D’Yeu. As our new friends would say, we “put some donk on it” to get the boat north as far as Les Sables D’Olonne then the wind piped up and sailed the rest. 53nm in in 8 hours.

21-23 Jun St Martin, Ile De Re. The rain stopped, the wind came from abeam: 6kn boat in 9kn wind!. We arrived in St Martin, the sun came out and temperature climbed….heaven at last :-)…and with the warm weather, nice neighbours, good food etc apathy sets in. Still resident on the 25th and heading for the 2 free nights to make it a full week!

19,20 Jun Bourgenay.. See here. James left Sables D’Olonne by train this morning and we trekked 6.5 nm down the coast to get on with the domestic jobs ….

18 jun Les Sables D’Olonne.

17 jun St Gilles Croix de la Vie. Laurie leaves us by train.

15,16 Jun Ile D’Yeu. 35nm with a forecast of a fine F4 on the beam – super. Reality was a F3 on the nose – motored all the way…..16th : fine sunny hot sunshine in 18 deg…

13,14 Pornichet. Weather turned to rainy F6 as we arrive. 7kn+ most of the way.

12 Jun Piriac Sur Mer. Weather turned….

9-11 Jun La Roche Bernard .Launched in hot humid weather. Previous night we stayed at Michelin rated restaurant/hotel L’Auberge Bretonne. Yum. James arrived on 11th.

28 Apr -3 May Arzal . Unpack and get ready for the season. Poor boat looking very green this year after a mild& wet winter

2015

21 Sep Home. 🙁 🙂 . Flat beds, no tink tink tink, slap slap or howl & shriek. Just the pigeons….

19,20 Arzal . Pack up and homeward bound. But before that the season ended with a restorative sail from Pornichet to Arzal in light sunny airs on a calm sea. What a difference a day makes. fab.

18 Pornichet: We broke out and had a lumpy run up. We could have sailed but settled for an easy life.

13-17 Sep Ile D’Yeu. Stormy tonighty, Stormy Wednesday. 110km gusts forecast. Another sail ripper..

12 Sep Bourgenay. Heading North as fast as we can to stay ahead of the next storm

8-11 Sep St Martin, Ile De Re. With Zoe

5-7 Sep Les Minimes, La Rochelle. Officially they are not taking visitors due to the preps for the Boat Show, but getting in early was rewarded with one of the last “unofficial” visitors spaces.

4 Sep Bourgenay

2,3 Sep St Giles Croix de la Vie

28 Aug – 1 Sep Ile D’Yeu

26,27 Aug L’Herbaudière, Noirmoutier. Reworked visitors pontoon helps

22-25 Aug Pornic. Still Holed up

21 Aug Pornichet, La Baule. West Coast mega resort.

18-20 Aug Arzal: start of another cruise – this time going south to La Rochelle

16 Jul Home

15 Jul Back to Arzal and the end of this holiday

13,14 Jul La Roche Bernard. For Bastille Day Celebrations

11,12 Jul Piriac Sur Mer for the big holiday weekend

9,10 Jul Le Palais, Belle Ile

7,8 Jul La Trinite sur Mer

5,6 Jul Port Haliguen

3,4 Jul Sauzon, Belle Ile

30 Jun – 2 Jul Port Louis

28,28 Jun Port de St Catherine (Loqmicuelic), Lorient. There’s a washing machine here and we need one….

27 Etel

24-26 Jun Port Tudy, Isle d’Groix

22,23 Jun Port Louis. Shiny new Capitainerie (harbourmaster’s office)

21 Jun Isle d’Houat

18-20 Jun La Roche Bernard. Chilling out after a hectic few days

14-17 Jun Vannes -staying at an airbnb place whilst we get the boat ready

2014

11 Sep Home. 🙁 🙂

8-10 Sep. Arzal. Full circle and end of cruise.

5,6 Sep La Roche Bernard

3,4 Sep – Piriac Sur Mer. Last saltwater stop before heading up the Villaine.

31 Aug – 2 Sep Pornic. Stylish.

29-30 Aug Ile d’Yeu. Top port:.One of our favourites

28 Aug. Back to Les Sables D’Olonne. Heading North slowly.

27 Aug Bourgenay-Dullsville. zzzz. Why do we do it?

20 – 26 A whole week in St Martin, Ile De Re. Heaven. Jazz Festival on the 22nd-25th. great.

19 La Rochelle, vieux port, Bassin des Chalutiers

18 Aug La Rochelle – Les Minimes Marina to pick up Laurie

11 -17 Aug… Rochefort, old naval port. Let the ambience just wash over…we did for a full week 🙂

7-10 Aug La Rochelle, Les Minimes, La Rochelle

5,6 Aug Bourgenay-Dullsville

3,4 Aug – Les Sables D’Olonne. Home of the Vendee Globe yacht race and others

31 Jul- 2 Aug Ile D’Yeu

30 Jul L’Herbaudiere. For 1 night only.

27-29 Jul Arzal

2013

29 Aug Lawrenny. To pick up car. Full circle and the end of travel reporting for this season.

28 Aug Broad Chalke ..sad to be home, glad to be home….

27 Aug Port Arzal-Camouel, a different berth this time.

25,26 Aug – back to La Roche Bernard (4 miles)

24 Aug, Port Arzal-Camouel, trying out our new home

21-23 La Roche Bernard. Up river. End of salty sea sailing.

19,20 Aug Pornic .Nice. Especially after awful night and poor service at L’Herbaudiere

18 Aug L’Herbaudière, Noirmoutier (after a very fast sail, beam reaching upto 9kn)

15-17 Aug Ile D’Yeu

14 Aug Bourgenay (nice, but nothing more than a handy stop between LR and Ile D’Yeu)

12,13 Aug La Rochelle – Les Minimes Marina

11 Aug La Rochelle, Bassin des Chalutiers

8-10 St Martin, Ile de Re (no internet)

7 Aug La Rochelle Vieux Port

4-6 Aug La Rochelle – Les Minimes Marina

2-3 Aug Ile D’Yeu

31 Jul – 1 Aug Le Palais, Belle Isle (no internet)

29,30 Jul Port Louis (Lorient)

27,28 Jul – Loctudy

23-26 Jul – Camaret Sur Mer (NW France)

20-22 Jul – Tresco / Bryher

19 Jul – Lawrenny